The recent warm weather we have been experiencing has many homeowners outdoors working on their lawns. A healthy, green, attractive-looking lawn doesn’t just happen, it takes some work, and the work starts now!
As soon as the lawn is dry enough to walk on, it can be worked on. The first step is to rake out all the old dead grass, leaves, and any other debris that accumulated through the winter months. Be sure to rake deeply enough that you loosen the brown turf. This will remove thatch and allow more air into your soil – both of which will help to prevent and kill mould, and make it easier for new grass to push through to the surface.
Thatch is the buildup of old grass clipping, roots and other debris that accumulate on the soil base. A small layer of 1-2 cm of thatch is beneficial as it keeps the soil moist and helps retain moisture, but too much thatch will prevent water, and nutrients from getting to the roots of the grass because it becomes a barrier. Thatch can be removed by using a lawnmower.
Remove the regular blade off your mower for this job and replace it with a de-thatching blade. A de-thatching blade has springs on it and the springs loosen the thatch and bring it to the lawn’s surface. Jim at Northern Turf told me that most quality mowers have de-thatching blade capabilities. Once you have gone over the lawn with the de-thatching blade, you will need to rake up all the old thatch, which can be thrown into the compost.
When that has been done the lawn can be aerated. This may not always be necessary, but in those high traffic areas where the soil becomes compact it is a good idea to aerate the area so that moisture, air, and nutrients can easily get to the grass’s roots. Aerating the lawn also helps in preventing moss and algae from forming in the lawn.
Aerating is done by perforating tiny holes into the soil. Small areas can be done by using a pitchfork. When the soil is slightly moist, push the tines of the pitchfork into the ground as far as it will go and then slightly rock it to enlarge the holes. Continue to move forward every 10-15 cm until the area is done. For big jobs an aerator can be rented. When renting any lawn, garden machinery or tools, always make sure that it has been properly cleaned before using it, as you don’t want to spread any unwanted diseases in the lawn.
This is a also good time of year to do a soil test on the lawn and make any changes if you need to. Do a pH test and if the pH level is below 6.5 it should be raised by adding lime. Doloprill lime is a good lime to use because it is in a granular form, making it easy to apply and it is fast acting.
Not everyone minds dandelions growing in the lawn, but if you don’t like dandelions, this is a good time to remove them. They are easy to spot as they are the first things to emerge and in some areas they are already blooming. They can be removed manually by using a dandelion puller which is inserted into the moist soil next to the dandelion root and then it is yanked out.
After the lawn has been raked, aerated, and de-thatched, and has shown signs of growth it is ready to be fertilized. I suggest using an early spring fertilizer such as Myke’s (10-3-3).
Myke fertilizer is organic and contains nutrients such as feather, bone and blood meals, and sulphate of potash and lime. It is a slow release fertilizer so it will not burn your lawn and it will also provide a steady stream of nutrients for a number of weeks. It is a well rounded fertilizer and will provide nutrients to the roots as well as give the lawn colour. A strong, dense healthy lawn makes it harder for weeds to establish themselves in the lawn.
If you feel like your lawn still needs a boost of nitrogen for that rich green growth, apply Fabulawn about a month after your Spring fertilizer. This will help your lawn become the lush lawn you’ve been dreaming of.
Though your lawn may not look like much now, by following these simple steps you will be well on your way to healthy green lawn this summer.
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